Marfa is unlike any place I've visited before.
This quirky town in West Texas is a top spot for photography lovers. With a population under 2,000, it's a former railroad hub that has blossomed into a cultural hotspot. Marfa gained fame when renowned minimalist artist Donald Judd relocated here from New York to showcase his work. Today, you'll find numerous galleries, trendy dive bars, and food trucks sprinkled through this charming town.
Explore Downtown Marfa, Texas
Judd's influence draws many art enthusiasts to Marfa. Its unique photographic appeal captivated me. Who could resist the allure of 1800s storefronts that blend modern aesthetics just a block from a bustling NAPA Auto Parts? During my visits, I roamed the streets at sunrise and sunset, seeking captivating shots. I'm often attracted to places on the fringes, like crumbling colonial towns in Latin America or ancient Buddhist ruins in Asia. In Marfa, it's the vintage cars, the massive art gallery from Judd's military base, and the weathered hotel signs that catch my eye. Marfa is flourishing in an era where many small towns struggle.
The town has a touch of adventure with its unpredictable hours. Shops and eateries tend to open and close at will, making Sunday nights particularly challenging for dining. (Friday and Saturday are the prime days to visit.)
People often ask for recommendations (where to eat, stay, and explore), so I've compiled my favorite spots into this quick guide to Marfa:
1. Marfa Lights
The enigmatic Marfa Lights are a must-see, first documented in 1883. I've witnessed these lights—glowing orbs that appear and vanish on clear nights between Marfa and the Piasno Pass. A viewing station is located nine miles east on Highway 90.
Advertisement for the Marfa Lights outside the quirky Thunderbird Hotel.
2. El Cosmico
El Cosmico is a 21-acre camping site featuring teepees, Mongolian yurts, and vintage trailers available for rent. Reservations fill up fast. Beyoncé stayed here during her visit. I prefer to pitch my own tent and choose the self-camp option for only $15 per person. There are hammocks, free Wi-Fi, and a large communal kitchen.
El Cosmico boasts unique lodging options including teepees.
3. Marfa Prada
One iconic art installation, known as Marfa Prada, is located 37 miles west of the town. Created by artists Elmgreen & Dragset in 2005 in collaboration with the Ballroom Marfa gallery, it mimics a Prada store filled with shoes and bags donated by Miuccia Prada, and features a door that doesn't open. My initial visit revealed some vandalism, which unfortunately occurs. On my second trip, it was restored and much more photogenic. Sunset or sunrise offers the best lighting for photos; avoid nighttime visits.
4. Food Shark
Food Shark serves some of the best fare in town. This Mediterranean-themed food truck, known for its bright orange door, operates Thursday to Sunday from noon to 3 p.m. Their slow-roasted pulled pork and okra sandwich is my favorite. Food Shark also runs The Museum of Electronic Wonders and Late Night Grilled Cheese Parlour, a popular spot on weekends filled with vintage televisions. If the interior is full, enjoy your grilled cheese in the adjacent renovated school bus.
Food Shark offers two delightful dining experiences in Marfa, perfect for lunch!
5. Chinati Foundation
The Chinati Foundation is a contemporary art museum situated on a former military base. Admission is free to view Judd's untitled 15 concrete works along Highway 67. They offer several guided tour options: full collection (4 hours/$25 adults), selection tour (2 hours/$20), and a self-guided tour of Judd's untitled aluminum works ($10 adults).
6. Cobra Rock
On my first visit, everyone recommended Cobra Rock Boot Company, owned by Colt Miller and Logan Caldbeck. Miller began crafting boots a decade ago near Lubbock, Texas, after training with a cowboy boot maker. Each shoe is primarily stitched on Colt's 1939 Singer sewing machine, producing 10 pairs a week, though each pair requires about three weeks to complete.
Cobra Rock Boot Company is among my favorite places to photograph and visit in Marfa.
Best Time to Visit:
- Most shops, galleries, and eateries are open on weekends. Saturdays are your best bet, while Sunday nights tend to be quiet. Spring and fall offer the most pleasant weather. Nights can be frigid from November to March, while summer days can be scorching. Be mindful that festival weekends can draw large crowds.
Nearby Attractions:
- Make sure to visit McDonald Observatory for their Saturday night Star Parties featuring outdoor constellation tours and telescope viewings. It can be chilly, but the stargazing is worth it.
- Hiking in Big Bend National Park is essential. The vast desert landscapes and towering limestone canyons are breathtaking. A 4-wheel drive vehicle can enhance access to remote park areas.
- Big Bend Brewery in nearby Alpine conducts tours at 3 p.m. from Wednesday to Friday and at 1 p.m. & 3 p.m. on Saturday for $10, including samples of all beers and a souvenir pint glass. Don't miss the Tejas lager – it's my favorite!
Dining and Nightlife:
- Lost Horse Saloon – A local bar featuring a fire pit and a fantastic taco trailer in the parking lot. 306 E. San Antonio
- Marfa Burrito – Known for life-changing burritos. Open daily from 6 a.m. to 2 p.m. 515 S. Highland St.
- Squeeze – My go-to for breakfast and lunch, offering scrumptious waffles and soups. Open Tuesday to Sunday from 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. 215 N Highland St.
- Jett's Grill – A solid choice for Sunday dinner, located in Hotel Paradiso. 207 North Highland Ave.
- Planet Marfa – An eclectic bar featuring a teepee in the center, open seasonally on weekends. 200 S. Abbott St.
Festivals in Marfa:
- Chinati Weekend: Features free tours, live music, and a $500 fundraising dinner that sells out quickly. This event occurs on Columbus Day Weekend (Saturday & Sunday), with galleries open late the Friday before as part of the Made in Marfa event.
- Marfa Film Festival: A five-day film festival with outdoor screenings. (July 13-17, 2016)
- Marfa Lights Festival: Takes place during Labor Day weekend at courthouse grounds, featuring a parade and live music.
- Marfa Myths: An art and music event co-hosted by Ballroom Marfa and Brooklyn's Mexican Summer record label (March 10-13, 2016)
- Trans-Pecos Festival: A music and arts festival held at El Cosmico. (September 22-25, 2016)
- Via Big Bend Festival: Features 50 bands performing across Alpine, Marathon, and Fort Davis. (July 28-31, 2016)
For more details:
El Cosmico offers a detailed map of Marfa along with an extensive restaurant guide.
