Stepping off the plane in Iceland marked my 46th country visited, and it was undeniably the most breathtaking destination I've experienced!
How could I resist falling in love with a land of majestic waterfalls, sparkling glacier lagoons, sprawling lava fields, adorable horses, endless summer sunlight, and of course, puffins?
Iceland captured my attention ever since my friend James relocated to Reykjavik three years ago. Its cost and geography kept me at bay, especially since I spent much of last year in South America. Yet, every Instagram post from James resembled a tourism brochure for Iceland.
My journey was anchored around the beautiful light and scenery, and Iceland was no different. I mapped out my travels based on the stunning landscapes, opting for summer to enjoy the warmth and the perpetual daylight (the sun hardly sets!).
Here’s a summary of my trip highlighting the must-see attractions in Iceland and spots to skip:
Reykjavik
Harpa, Reykjavik's impressive concert hall, opened its doors in 2011. The public can enjoy the building all day, complete with free wifi!
Arriving in Reykjavik, the capital, I was greeted by a warm wave—61°F! It’s a charming city worth spending a day or two exploring and also the best spot for shopping. Harpa, the primary concert venue, is stunning. I took the lift to the top of Hallgrímskirkja, the famous church. I typically experience museum fatigue, so I skipped most of them, except for the informative Museum of Iceland. The food scene impressed me, especially the fish and chips at Reykjavik Fish; I liked it so much, I went there twice. I also enjoyed a ferry ride from Harpa to Viðey Island, a lovely way to spend an afternoon.
Southern Iceland
Clockwise from top left: Route 1, Icelandic horses, turf houses near Sel and the Dyrhólaey lighthouse.
Southern Iceland is a visual paradise packed with the majority of Iceland's top sights. Driving Route 1, the ring road, is the best way to explore. This two-lane road offers an 828-mile loop around the country with a 55 mph speed limit. Who doesn’t love a good road trip?
Seljalandsfoss Waterfall, Southern Iceland
James and I ventured through the South in his car. Our first stop was Seljalandsfoss, the iconic waterfall where you can walk behind, alongside the hidden cave waterfall, Gljúfrabúi. Get ready to get soaked!
Dyrhólaey cliffs are home to puffins, which visit the area from April to September.
Next up was Dyrhólaey, featuring cliffs with an arch formation that provides spectacular views of the black sand beaches and unique rock structures. Plus, it’s a great spot for puffins—there were so many!
James snapped this incredible photo of me at Fjaðrárgljúfur, a stunning canyon between Vik and Skaftafell.
We visited Vik to see James’ friend who runs a bed and breakfast. She recommended a visit to Fjaðrárgljúfur canyon, a hidden gem that turned out to be one of the trip's highlights, just a short detour off the ring road!
Icebergs wash ashore on the black pebble beaches near Jökulsárlón lagoon.
Jökulsárlón, the breathtaking glacier lagoon, was a highlight. I spent a few hours wandering around, and don’t miss the beach on the east side of the bridge for fantastic photos of mini-icebergs washed up there. Later, we returned to Skaftafell for a short hike to my favorite waterfall, Svartifoss, framed by dramatic basalt columns formed by rapidly cooled lava. A quick trek from the falls led us to the turf houses at Sel, my favorite for their secluded setting. (Plus, they were FREE!)
That night, we returned to Vik to meet up with James’ friend for dinner. We mingled with her guests and staff, including a Polish bat expert, an Austrian couple, and a French translator. We discussed various topics and tried fermented shark, an Icelandic delicacy (surprisingly better than it sounds!). Since rain poured that night, we opted to sleep in the car instead of putting up a tent (the most memorable road trips include sleeping in cars!).
The wreck of an old plane near Vik is no longer reachable by car, so be ready for a walk!
To steer clear of crowds, we woke up at sunrise to hike to the haunting wreck of a U.S. Navy DC plane that crashed in 1973 (everyone survived!). The site is a 4 km trek from the main road on Sólheimasandur beach near Vik (GPS: 63°27‘32.8“N 19°21‘53.2“W). There’s no sign on the main road, but you can usually find cars parked at the path's entrance. Afterward, we visited Skógafoss that afternoon, a stunning waterfall where rainbows often appear in the mist. The hike to the top is absolutely worth it!
Golden Circle
One day, I borrowed James’ car and drove the Golden Circle, which includes three main attractions—geysers (usually crowded), Gullfoss waterfall, and Þingvellir National Park, the site of Iceland’s first parliament. While all these spots are popular, they felt less thrilling compared to the gems I discovered in the South. Skip the Golden Circle and spend more time driving the ring road!
Snæfellsnes
Súgandisey island offers stunning views across Stykkishólmur harbor and Breiðafjörður.
The next day, I rented a 2WD Suzuki Swift hatchback, affectionately named Sophia, and set out to explore Snæfellsnes on my own. This 90 km long peninsula became my favorite part of Iceland, filled with breathtaking scenery. My first stop was Stykkishólmur, a charming harbor town with a stone causeway leading to a basalt island topped with a picturesque lighthouse. The entire town offers free wifi, and Nesbrauð, a budget-friendly bakery at the edge of town, serves delicious pastries and sandwiches!
A four-wheel drive vehicle isn't necessary to navigate the dirt road through Berserkjahraun Lava field.
A drive through the moss-covered Berserkjahraun lava field is essential. A dirt road weaves through this otherworldly landscape formed by ancient lava from 3,000 years ago. The turn-off for the loop road is on Route 54 just past the intersection with Route 56. Watch for the small sign, as it’s easily missed.
A photographer makes his way back to his car at Kirkjufell during sunset, which occurs around 11:30 p.m. in summer.
Kirkjufell is unmissable—its lush green peak makes it the most photographed mountain in Iceland, jutting into the sea by Grundarfjörður. I captured it three times: once in the afternoon, then at sunset around 11:30 p.m., and again at 5:30 a.m. after a night in my rental car!
Svörtuloft Lighthouse in Snaefellsjokull National Park
Iceland’s first national park, Snaefellsjokull National Park, spans the far western edge of the peninsula, featuring a stunning coastline, a volcano, and a glacier. One of my favorite scenic drives was along gravel Route 579 at the park’s northern edge. This T-shaped dead-end road leads to two colorful lighthouses, offering incredible cliffside views.
The black wooden church at Búðir was built between 1984-1986, replicating the original church from 1703.
Other highlights included Djupalonssandur, a pebbled beach scattered with remnants of a 1948 shipwreck, and Búðir, a barren lava field housing a four-star hotel and a photogenic black church.
Northern Iceland
Siglufjörður
In the North, I detoured off the ring road to explore the Trollaskagi Peninsula, which became one of my favorite drives. I paused in Hólar, a quaint town that was once the capital of North Iceland, showcasing the oldest stone church in the country and charming turf houses.
Straumnes lighthouse near Hofsos, Iceland
Fueled by my lighthouse obsession, I sought out the remote Straumnes lighthouse, perched on a cliff north of Hofsos. After struggling to find it on Google, I reached out to the local museum. The director kindly offered to drive me there in his 4WD truck! Icelanders are incredibly friendly and helpful. Whenever I needed directions to a secluded photo spot, I emailed the local tourism board or museum, and they always provided excellent guidance. The lighthouse was located 3 km down a rugged dirt road on a farm at the cliff's edge, about a 15-minute drive north of the village. During the ride, the museum director reminisced about believing as a child that every country could see the northern lights! I wish I could have experienced that as a kid on my parents’ South Carolina farm!
The Herring Era Museum features three picturesque buildings along the Siglufjörður harbor.
Siglufjörður is arguably Iceland’s most beautiful village, nestled in a scenic fjord and accessible only via two narrow, terrifying tunnels with two-way traffic (the longest three kilometers of my life!). The town hosts the acclaimed Herring Era Museum, which celebrates its significant role in Iceland’s herring fishing industry. I visited part of the museum and loved it!
I spent a night in Akureyri, Iceland’s second-largest city, before heading to Lake Mývatn and Dettifoss, Europe’s mightiest waterfall. Dettifoss is reachable via paved Route 862, suitable for non-4WD vehicles. Arrive before 10 a.m. to avoid the tour bus crowds!
Blue Lagoon
The entrance pools of the Blue Lagoon are more photogenic than the lagoon itself!
I spent my final day at the Blue Lagoon, a man-made geothermal spa situated in a lava field near the airport. I found it overpriced and overrated, and the construction cranes and power plant in the background detracted from the view. The vacant pools by the entrance were the most picturesque. I preferred the geothermal public pools I visited throughout my trip. Each city in Iceland features a pool with a gym and various pool types and temperatures (entry costs $6-8 USD). My favorite in Borg had a water slide! (No photos are permitted at public pools, so I couldn't capture the fun.)
In total, I spent 10 days in Iceland and wished for more. I plan to return during winter to photograph the northern lights and ice caves. You can’t see it all in one trip! My only regret? Not visiting Iceland sooner! What’s stopping you?!
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Budget Tips for Iceland
In the final entry of my Iceland series, I'll detail my trip expenses along with budget-friendly and packing tips. As a bonus, I’ll reveal secrets for capturing Iceland’s top sights!
Skógafoss Waterfall
